Scalp Care Like a Scandi Girl: Dandruff, Oiliness, Dryness

“Scandinavian” scalp care (in the way most of us mean it online) is basically: keep the routine small, make it functional, and don’t romanticize discomfort. Your scalp is skin. If it’s flaky, greasy, itchy, or tight, you don’t need twenty products. You need the right few, used consistently.

This guide gives you a realistic routine for the three big complaints:

• Dandruff / seborrheic dermatitis type flaking
• Oiliness (greasy scalp that comes back fast)
• Dryness (tight, itchy, “snowy” flakes)

Everything below is based on dermatology and clinical health guidance, not personal testing.

Quick answer for skimmers

• Dandruff isn’t “dirty scalp.” It’s often tied to oil + yeast + irritation, and it’s managed (not “cured”) with the right active shampoo.
• Dry scalp and dandruff can look similar. A simple clue: dandruff tends to be oil-driven; dry scalp is moisture-loss driven.
• The fastest win: use a medicated dandruff shampoo correctly (massage into scalp and let it sit a few minutes before rinsing).
• Oiliness often improves with more frequent, scalp-focused washing (especially for fine/straight hair).
• Maintenance matters: once dandruff calms down, keep a medicated shampoo in the rotation weekly or every 1-2 weeks so it doesn’t rebound.
• If you’re in the EU/UK: many classic anti-dandruff shampoos used to rely on zinc pyrithione, which is banned in EU cosmetics (and restricted in the UK). You’ll likely be choosing other actives.

If you only do one thing: pick one scalp problem (dandruff vs dryness) and run that routine for 3-4 weeks before changing products.

Step 1: Figure out which problem you actually have

Looks like dandruff / seborrheic dermatitis

• Greasy scalp, itch, larger flakes (sometimes yellowish)
• Can come with redness, and can flare with stress or weather
• Often improves with antifungal/anti-dandruff shampoos

Looks like dry scalp

• Tight, irritated feeling
• Smaller white flakes
• Often worse in winter, after hot showers, or when you overwash / use harsh cleansers

Looks like mostly oiliness

• Greasy roots within 24 hours
• Hair “separates” quickly
• Often improves with more frequent shampooing and good rinse technique

This won’t work if what you’re calling “dandruff” is actually psoriasis, eczema, or a fungal infection like tinea capitis, or if you have thick plaques, bleeding, hair loss patches, or painful pustules. That’s dermatologist territory.

The Scandinavian-style framework: a 3-product scalp system

Think “capsule wardrobe,” but for hair wash days.

1. Everyday shampoo (gentle base)
   Use this on non-treatment days so you’re not stripping your scalp.
2. Treatment shampoo (active ingredient)
   This is your “medicine” step for dandruff or heavy buildup.
3. Conditioner (ends only)
   Most scalp drama gets worse when conditioner or oils sit on your scalp.

That’s it. You can add one optional extra later, but you don’t start there.

Routine A: Dandruff (and seborrheic dermatitis type flaking)

Your best active options (choose one to start)

Dermatology guidance commonly lists these anti-dandruff actives:

• Ketoconazole
• Selenium sulfide
• Salicylic acid
• Coal tar
• Sulfur
• (Zinc pyrithione is still mentioned in some guidance, but see EU/UK note below)

If you want the most “no-drama” starting point, ketoconazole is a common first pick for dandruff/seb derm because it targets yeast on the scalp.

How to actually use it (this is the part people skip)

• Wet hair thoroughly.
• Apply the medicated shampoo to the scalp (not just the hair).
• Massage in and leave it on for several minutes before rinsing.
• Rinse like you mean it. Leftover product can irritate.

A “real” 4-week schedule

Weeks 1-2

• Treatment shampoo: 2x/week
• Gentle shampoo: as needed in between
  This matches common ketoconazole schedules used in clinical guidance for dandruff control.

Weeks 3-4

• Treatment shampoo: 1x/week
• Gentle shampoo: as needed

Maintenance (after it’s calm)

• Treatment shampoo: every 1-2 weeks to prevent relapse

Tiny but important notes

• If one active doesn’t work, dermatology guidance commonly suggests trying a different active or alternating (rotation is normal with dandruff).
• Coal tar and selenium sulfide can discolor light or color-treated hair.
• Selenium sulfide can make some people feel oilier. It’s a real trade-off.

EU/UK note (because it changes what you can buy)

If you’re shopping in the EU, zinc pyrithione is prohibited in cosmetic products under Commission Regulation (EU) 2021/1902, effective March 1, 2022.
Interesting wrinkle: the EU’s SCCS previously stated zinc pyrithione was safe up to 1% in rinse-off anti-dandruff hair products, but regulatory classification rules still led to the ban.
So in practice, EU readers usually end up choosing ketoconazole, selenium sulfide, salicylic acid, sulfur, or tar instead.

Routine B: Oiliness (greasy roots that come back fast)

The Scandinavian approach here is blunt: wash the scalp often enough to keep it calm, and stop treating oil like a moral failing.

What “often enough” can look like

The AAD notes that if you have straight hair and an oily scalp, daily shampooing may be appropriate, while drier, textured hair often needs less frequent washing.
There’s also clinical research showing a daily wash regimen can improve scalp condition vs once weekly for many people, without objective hair damage in that study setting.

A simple oil-control routine

Every wash

• Use a gentle shampoo, focusing on the scalp
• Shampoo twice if you use heavy styling products or dry shampoo (first pass lifts grime, second cleans)

1-2x/week (optional)

• Swap in a light exfoliating shampoo (often salicylic-acid based) if you have buildup or “waxy” roots
  This is optional. Skip it if your scalp is already irritated.

Conditioner rule

• Conditioner stays from mid-lengths to ends only. If it touches your scalp, oiliness often feels worse.

One clear trade-off (no solution)

If you wash more often, your ends may feel drier. That’s not you doing it wrong. It’s just physics: scalp needs cleansing; hair lengths need conditioning.

Routine C: Dryness (tight, itchy scalp with small flakes)

Dry scalp is usually about barrier and moisture, not fungus.

The routine

2-4x/week or as needed

• Gentle, fragrance-light shampoo
• Lukewarm water (hot water makes a lot of scalps complain)
• Conditioner on ends

After washing (optional)

• A tiny amount of a scalp-friendly moisturizer/serum (think simple, soothing formulas) applied sparingly to parted scalp
  Skip if your scalp tends to get greasy quickly.

What to avoid for now

• Harsh scrubs and gritty “scalp exfoliators”
• Essential oils as a first-line solution (they can irritate sensitive skin)
• Leaving heavy oils on the scalp if you also get flakes (it can confuse the picture)

If you also have eczema-prone skin, eczema organizations note that many cosmetic shampoos can irritate and that medicated options may be needed in some cases.

The “Scandinavian” weekly routine (mix-and-match template)

Use this as a starting rhythm and adjust based on your hair type.

If dandruff is your main issue

• Mon: Gentle shampoo
• Wed: Treatment shampoo (leave on a few minutes)
• Fri or Sat: Gentle shampoo
• Sun: Optional second treatment day (weeks 1-2 only)

If oiliness is your main issue

• Shampoo most days if needed (especially fine/straight hair)
• 1 day/week: optional clarifying or salicylic-acid shampoo

If dryness is your main issue

• Shampoo less often, but consistently
• Keep water lukewarm
• Consider a simple scalp moisturizer after wash (optional)

Common mistakes (and what to do instead)

1. You treat the hair, not the scalp.
   Medicated shampoos need to contact the scalp and sit briefly to work.
2. You quit after one week.
   Dandruff routines often need several weeks, then maintenance.
3. You “no-poo” your way into a flare.
   For yeast-driven flaking, avoiding shampoo can backfire due to buildup.
4. You over-oil the scalp to fix flakes.
   If flakes are dandruff, oil can make it feel worse.
5. You use harsh exfoliation on an already angry scalp.
   If it stings, scale back. Calm first, then refine.

FAQ

How long should I let dandruff shampoo sit?

Many dandruff shampoos need several minutes on the scalp before rinsing; follow the label instructions.

How often should I use ketoconazole shampoo?

One common schedule is twice a week for 2-4 weeks, then once every 1-2 weeks for maintenance.

Can I rotate dandruff shampoos?

Yes. Rotating or trying different active ingredients is commonly recommended when one option isn’t enough.

Is dandruff just a dry scalp?

Not always. Dry scalp is moisture-loss driven; dandruff is typically more oil/yeast/inflammation related.

Do I need to wash oily hair every day?

Some people with straight hair and oily scalp do well with daily washing, and research suggests frequent washing can improve scalp condition for many.

When should I see a dermatologist?

If you have pain, oozing, thick plaques, bleeding, patchy hair loss, or no improvement after 4 weeks of consistent routine. Also if you suspect psoriasis or eczema.